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Sunday after Thanksgiving (no calendar, no clock)
Bangkok (Krung Thep) means "City of Angels." For
the past ten days I've been immersed in this exotic new world of which
I have nothing in my experience to compare. It envelopes you the moment
you arrive. It is an explosion for the senses; so much color, smells,
sights and sounds burst around one. It leaves one dizzy as one tries to
cope with it all along with the oppressive heat, humidity and twelve million
people.
My first day here I found the stimulus and heat to be overwhelming.
Everyone stared at me and I very much felt in the minority. I stopped
to eat at an indoor café and found that I was a focal point of
interest, some cautious, some blatant. My only form of communication was
to smile, so I smiled a lot. Usually, most people answer back with a big
grin.
Bangkok
is a city of amazing contrasts and chaos. Dingy concrete buildings rise
up around elaborate temples (wats) and ancient Buddhist stupas covered
with sparkling gemstones, gold and inlaid glass. Large street signs and
storefronts with curly-que lettering abound everywhere, yet give no clue
to non-Thai speaking foreigners where they are in the city. I keep track
of myself by walking in straight lines down the streets avoiding turns
until I get some sense of orientation. It is so easy to become lost and
no way to figure out where one is at or ask directions!
The aroma of roasted chicken and duck, smoking incense and
fragrant flower garlands intermingle with the smell of stray dogs, stagnant
canals and car exhaust. A sea of black trousers and skirts is accented
by the brilliant saffron robes of wandering monks. Street vendors sell
their produce and hand crafts from carts to well-dressed business people,
tourists and university students everywhere in the city. The roar of traffic
never ceases and at night car lights ribbon for endless miles in all directions.
Even on the roadways the contrast continues. Buses, taxis, compact cars
(mostly Honda and Toyota), tuk tuk (three wheel covered cart with seats,
motorcycle "taxis," bicycles and hand built carts all vie for
street space. There are walkways above the streets for pedestrians to
cross to the other side of the street. I've emitted a few startled screams
as I've sprinted between cars that don't believe in yielding.
It
is a land steeped in Buddhist spirituality and philosophy with some of
the world's oldest and most beautiful temples yet, it is also a land of
extreme nightlife and raw sexuality concentrated in red light districts.
The food is amazing, fresh, beautiful and delicious. One
can find vendors peeling and cutting fresh mango, papaya, pineapple and
other exotic fruit and bagging it up with small packets of sugar and chili
pepper mix for 10 baht (25 cents). Iced mochas, green tea, fresh coconut
milk and some of the most delicious mandarin orange juice is available.
There are also unknown fried meats, fishes and veggies on sticks and a
wide assortment of interesting relishes and condiments to accompany the
food.
In my short stay, I have discovered that in Thailand one
can find any sensual delight. It is truly a land of "yum" in
every sense of the word.
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